Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Denim Production

8 processes involve in making denim fabrics
(Ref & Pictures are from Pepe Jeans)

1. Opening and Blending- arrival and opening of bulk raw cotton from farms. Those bulks of raw cotton are as hard as bolder. So the process of Opening the cotton is loosening it and separating it into tufts. Since different varieties of cottons were delivered, on this stage, they blended it to make a consistent fabric.

2. Carding- cotton are back to its original state, web of fibers, cotton you usually see fell from the trees; which they called lap. Stick, seeds, leaves and other impurities are removed by passing thru the cottons on the teeth like structure of metal sticks. This process is what we call carding. After carding, cotton laps are now in parallel to each other inserted into trumpet tube to create sliver. Slivers are cotton lose rope.

3. spinning- As for pre-preparations for spinning, six slivers are combined together to form a stronger one sliver. Further twisted to create thinner yarn known as roving. More drawing and twisting are done by spinning machine to create ring spun. Ring spun used for warp is more tightly twisted than for weft ring spun.

4. Warp & Weft Yarn- lengthwise yarn of the fabric is what we call WARP. Crosswise yarn of the fabric is what we call WEFT. Weft yarn are as known as filler since it acts as filler for warp yarn in weaving. Since it is only fillers, shorter fibers are used to make weft ring spun.

5. Dyeing- before passing thru the large cylinders of dyeing machine, yarn are combine together to make a rope---->>wash of sulfur and indigo---->>drying cans---->> coiled into lose ropes in a tube container.

6. Beaming- after separating the rope back into yarn, it is now ready for starching to make it smooth and stiff which supports the yarn for abrasion and tension during weaving.

7. Weaving- after spreading the warp yarn on the loom and weft yarn fed in to the loom, machine will start weaving by crossing natural undyed weft yarns between warp yarns.

8. Finishing- to clean astray yarns, flame is brushed and signed into the fabric. and then following are done to finish denim fabric:
stretched to its proper width
skewed to prevent twisting
moistened and compressed bet iron plates to prevent shrinkage
rolled ready for manufacturers' purchases

Monday, February 25, 2008

Official Philippine Holiday

PGMA issues Proclamation No. 1463 setting the dates of 2008 regular and special holidays
Tuesday, February 19, 2008


President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo has issued Proclamation No. 1463 setting the specific dates of movable holidays as mandated by Republic Act No. 9492 which rationalized the celebration of the country’s holidays.

President Arroyo signed the proclamation on Feb. 18, the day she declared Feb. 25, 2008 (Monday) as a Special (Non-Working) Day nationwide to mark the 22nd anniversary of the 1986 EDSA People Power Revolution.

R.A. 9492 provides that holidays, except those which are religious in nature, are moved to the nearest Monday unless otherwise modified by law, order or proclamation.

This year, the following regular holidays shall fall on the following dates:

• Maundy Thursday (March 20, Thursday);
• Good Friday (March 21, Friday);
• Araw ng Kagitingan (April 7, Monday nearest April 9);
• Labor Day (May 1, Thursday);
• Independence Day (June 9, Monday nearest June 12);
• National Heroes’ Day (Aug. 25, last Monday of August);
• Bonifacio Day (Dec. 1, Monday nearest Nov. 30);
• Christmas Day (Dec. 25, Thursday); and
• Rizal Day (Dec. 30, Tuesday).

Meanwhile, the Special (Non-Working) Holidays for 2008 shall fall on the following dates:

• Ninoy Aquino Day (Aug.18, Monday nearest Aug. 21);
• All Saints’ Day (Nov. 1, Saturday);
• Additional Special (Non-Working) Day (Dec. 26, Friday);
• Additional Special (Non-Working) Day (Dec. 29, Monday); and the
• Last day of the year (Dec. 31, Wednesday).

As for the Muslims’ observance of Eidul Fitr, President Arroyo ordered the Office of Muslim Affairs (OMA) to inform the Office of the President (OP) “on which day the said holiday shall fall.”

The President said another proclamation shall be issued declaring the Eidul Fitr date as a national holiday for Muslims “after the appropriate date of the Islamic holiday has been determined in accordance with the Islamic calendar (Hijra) or the lunar calendar, or upon Islamic astronomical calculations, whichever is possible or convenient.”

The President tasked the Department of Labor and Employment (DOLE) to promulgate the implementing guidelines for Proclamation 1463.

Friday, February 22, 2008

Jeans Terminology

3x1 vs. 2x1 weave

This refers to the number of weft threads per warp thread. Most denims have been traditionally 3x1 weaves, though lighter weight denims (under 10.5 ounces/sqare yard) often use the 2x1 configuration. [from LA Guy]

Acid washing

The quick definition can be summed up in one word, "horrible". Also called "Snow wash". This technique reared it head up in Italy in the late 80s. Basically you soak your pumice stones in bleach and tumble them with the jeans. Then neutralise. [from ringring]

Big E

"Big E" jeans refer to Levi's jeans produced before 1971, in which the red tab on the back pocket had the LEVI'S logo with a capital E. Post-1971 Levi's jeans are written "LeVI'S" on the red tab.

Broken Twill

Instead of the twill running to the right or left, broken twill jeans (traditionally considered the cowboy-preferred denim) contain no distinct direction of weave. The weave is instead alternated right and left - the end effect resembles a random zig-zag. Wrangler made the first broken twill jeans in 1964. Broken Twill was designed to combat the twisting effect that was a characteristic regular twill (and considered a 'fault' by many at the time). By going on both directions, the tension in the yarns is balanced in Broken Twill. [additions from ringring]

Dual Ring-Spun

Also called RingxRing, Ring-Ring, Double Ringspun. Dual ring-spun denim is denim where both the warp and weft (filler) threads are made of ring-spun yarn. Typically only premium, more expensive denim brands use this method, as it is more labor intensive and thus more costly to produce. The result however, is a very textured denim, and is much softer than open-end or single ring-spun. You will know ringspun denim when you see it - the warp threads will be "slubby" at some points, and there will be little puffs of indigo thread. It is more obvious when looking at the weft threads (underside of the denim).

Enzyme wash

The environmentally friendly way to stone wash jeans, through the application of organic enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. No pumice stones are used. When the desired colour is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. A final rinsing and softening cycle is next, before the jeans are ready to be sold. Still frowned upon by companies such as Howies, who prefer to use rubberised "Eco" Balls to wash their jeans. [from Cake]

Left Hand Twill

This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. Left hand twill denim is softer to the touch than right hand twill, and was originally used by Lee denim. Now used by other denim companies such as 45rpm, Kunna, and Lee Japan. Left hand twill is easy to spot, as the weft threads appear to move upward and to the left as opposed to upward and to the right.

Mercerised Denim

Mercerising for denim is used to increase lustre, by passing the denim through a bath of caustic soda. It's a process carried out after the denim is woven and vastly different to the more commen method of mercerising yarn. As it significantly increases the cost and lead times of denim production, it is a relatively rare process. (not that many consumers would notice). [from ringring]

Microsanding

Sanding is basically done 3 ways: Sandblasting, (see below),
Machine sanding - just like machines that you'd use to sand a wooden table, and Handsanding aka Handbrushing - just a piece of folded fine sandpaper. All three methods are used in various ways, on the flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards), on the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes standing, sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated') and various templates can be used to create a 3D effect. Any sanding can be enhanced with chemical whiteners. [from ringring]

Overdye

Basically dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of colour. Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create a 'dirty' look. Also can be applied with spraygun or paintbrush for local colouring (ie. if you wanted just 'dirty knees'). [from ringring]

Redline

Redline refers to a colored warp thread that is run through the selvage edge of denim fabric. This is not indicitive of the quality of the jeans so much as it is a signature of the maker, and a way for Cone Mills to differentiate between the denim they made for different companies. Lee denim had a green (or sometimes blue) warp thread on their selvage, and Wranger used yellow.

Right Hand Twill

This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. The opposite of Left Hand twill, this weave is much more common, as almost all jeans are woven with right hand twill. The weft (filler) threads will be visible in upward-right diagonal lines on right-hand twill jeans.

Ring-Spun

The method in which the yarn is produced; ring-spun cotton is spun on a ring instead of more modern method of open-ended spinning. The result is a softer denim, that is more imperfect than open-ended and has individual texture that is often desired by denim admirers.

Rope Dying

The best method of dying denim, most (should be all) upscale denim manufacturers use this method. It refers to twisting the threads of yard into a rope-like shape, then dipping the rope into a bath of indigo. It is often dipped multiple times - the more bathing of the yarn, the darker the shade.

Sandblasting

As it sounds, compressed airguns shoot sand onto jeans to create abrasion. Sometimes a 'tracer' dye is added so that the 'shooter' can more accurately judge the volume and accuracy. Very fast, but quite a clumsy way to achieve fading. [from ringring]

Sanforizing

Sanforizing denim is a method of stretching and manipulating the cloth in the factory prior to any washing so that any shrinking during future washes will be minimalized. It is important to note if your raw jeans are sanforized or not before determining what size to buy, non-sanforized jeans will shrink 7-10%, while sanforized jeans will shrink 1-5%. It is often advised to give non-sanforized jeans a warm soak before wearing them to get the shrinking done before you create wear marks on the jeans.

Selvage (Selvedge) Denim

Selvage and selvedge mean exactly the same thing - different companies spell it differently and there apparently is no "right" way to spell it. It comes from the phrase "self-edge" which refers to the edge being finished by the loom instead of sewn together after weaving. [thanks Geowu]. Selvage is the term commonly used to refer to denim that has been produced on a shuttle loom. Since the amount of fabric produced from a shuttle loom is significantly narrower than a projectile (wide) loom, the cotton consumption is higher and the time required is greater. In selvage jeans, you will see the actual edge of the fabric where the weaving stops and is finished by the loom, as opposed to denim woven on a projectile loom, where the fabric has been cut off at the ends. The "redline" selvage is Levi's signature and was used in all their jeans up to 1982, before Cone Mills nixed them for the more modern projectile looms, which are faster and much more efficient.

Stone washing

French husband & wife team, Marithe & Francois Girbaud claim to have pioneered this technique of washing jeans in a machine with small pumice stones. Independently, the Japanese jeans company, Edwin also make this claim. The pumice stones are generally taken from southern Italy (the whitest and most expensive), Turkey and Indonesia (darkest and cheapest). Some claim that washing jeans with dark stones give the jeans a 'dirty' look, although this can be countered somewhat with extra rinsing in the laundry.

Unwashed Denim

Also called rigid, or raw denim. Typically when denim is manufactured it is sent to a laundry to undergo many washing processes to give it a worn look. Unwashed denim, however, is not washed before it is sold to the customer (although some companies will sell a one-wash jean). It is stiff, and depending on the weight can feel as though you're walking in sheet-metal. It will also be very dark and will sometimes appear black. Traditionally, all jeans were sold unwashed and it was up to the customer to break them in.

Warp Thread

Warp threads are the indigo-dyed thread. Also commonly called "surface threads," as they account for a majority of the thread you see on the surface. It is the opposite on the underside of the jeans, where the weft (filler) threads are more visible, and the warp threads are in the minority. They are woven in and out of the weft thread vertically to create the denim twill.

Weft (Filler) Thread

Weft, or filler, threads are traditionally ecru-colored, however many companies now bleach their weft threads or dye them. The weft is visible mostly on the underside of the denim, but resemble diagonal stripes on the surface. They are woven in and out of the warp threads horizontally to create the denim twill.

Whiskering

Also known as 'Cat's Whiskers'. These are the crease lines around the crotch. Industrially these can be done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, handsanding and abrasive rods. Same techniques are used for 'knee whiskers' (whiskers on the sides of knees) and 'honeycombs' (crease marks on the back of the knee). [from ringring]


from http://www.styleforum.net

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Adi-diesel




Check this out. Its really superb to have two companies "merge" for a project. The Adi-Diesel jeans are so good. From four-piece collection, they were able to incorporated the image of both brands; as Diesel for ingenuity for jeans and Adidas for sporty elegant look. So nice. For the washing of the jeans, Diesel settled doe safer wash this time, since they are recognized in eccentric washing and first to insist of dirty look jeans to their market.

http://diesel.adidas.co

JEANS---italy

I'm starting this by giving you list of jeans brand which you can compare and contrast. It is categorized by countries, from where you can buy them. The format: brand (year established)- comment. I may comment on some brands that caught my interest, otherwise, they may not have website, where I base my comment about the brand. IF the comment is italicized, the comment is copied verbatim from the magazine. I read this from Sportswear International Jan-Feb '08:

Italy
Key Brands:
Rifle (1958)
Roy Roger's (1959)
Fiorucci (1970)
Diesel (1978)
Replay(1981)
Energie (1989)
Gas (1990)
Miss Sixty (1991)
Meltin' Pot (1994)
Freesoul (1994)
Nolita (1998)
Fornarina (1998)
Dondup (2000)- designers item, eccentric details like for tis buttons and accessories
Ra-Re (2000)
Cycle (2001)- just an average jeans brands with leather trimmings
Re-Hash (2002)
Parasuco Cult (2003)- one of the best jeans brand i encoutered, clean and very good style, sexy too check out their work book.

New brand:
My Ass (2004)-a sexy brand that knows what women want by making most their posteriors
Jackeroo (2006)- which offers cowboy-like styles with extravagant leather details, rivets, patches
Ring (2004)- focuses on clean elegant jeans

Thursday, February 14, 2008

poems from MM

KS:and it really makes my heart smile
as if theres nothing i should deny
but things are untertain to make u mine (my answer to all of these poems)

MM:Could it be that I once saw you
In a dream as old as time
And could it be the arms holding you
Were really mine the whole time?

Could you have been my one and only
The reason I woke each new day
The one thing I always needed
The one for whom I use to pray?

Could it be that I had found you
After looking my entire life
Could it be that I had promised
That one day I'd be your life?

Could it be that I still love you
And once again I'll find
That you're not just a memory
Only to be viewed in my mind?

Could it be, oh Lord I pray,
Just one thing I ask of you
If you're out there waiting
You'll try to find me too?


MM:You talk to me about the facts and tell me what’s the deal.

With you I feel so comfortable, like nothing can go wrong,
I get this tingly feeling inside, you sing to me like a song.

The fact that you are older, really did freak me out,
But you treat me like I’m your age, now I’m rid of all my doubts.

I’m trying to live in the moment, by forgetting about the past,
And so far it’s been working, and it’s really been a blast.

So hopefully from this day forth, I’ll know just what to do,
If ever I come across a guy, another guy like you.
MM: I love you so much that words can't explain
this joy that I have for you.

When I am at the weakest point of my life
you are there encouraging me to run this race
because I am not only cause you are there with me.

You are on my mind day and night.

When we are apart I picture you gracious smile and gentle hug.

I can let my feelings out to you and won't regret it
because no matter what is you are always on my side.

I thank God for sending me someone like you who is precious and loving.

So I can truly say that you are the Angel of My Life!

MM (2/14/2008 6:18:31 PM): It seems you were sent straight to me from above Your smile is bright enough to bring the day Your eyes so blue, I just have to say There couldn't be anything more perfect in one place Your beauty is much deeper than just your face They say love takes time but yet . . . . It feels as if we've already met It feels like we were meant to be Together forever . . . You and Me Send This Poem

MM (2/14/2008 6:15:10 PM): It's you Who understands It's you believing Who inspires, loves Who tolerates It's your heart Your kindness Sincerity Your trust Honesty It's you, true love Giving, loving Playing, sharing It's today Tomorrow Yesterday It's forever Without a doubt It's always been It's you It's you Who understands It's you believing Who inspires, loves Who tolerates It's your heart Your kindness Sincerity Your trust Honesty It's you, true love Giving, loving Playing, sharing It's today Tomorrow Yesterday It's forever Without a doubt It's always been It's you

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

after and after and after

I talk to him last Monday. After doing things we always do together---gym, sauna, and eat. We went to a bar and drunk some booze. I know i needed a booze otherwise, i wont be telling everything i have inside me. He was sorry that it happened.

I came to think about, what will be next. I mean i used to love him so much but now, the feeling fades away. It is true that a love relationship has a very good foundation if it is base from friendship but like other relationship when the foundation has been "demolished", it meant to fade away. And the difficulty about it is that second time around is more difficult. There could times that what surprise or should i say get the interest, the partners before can no longer work. Worst is when it is on the state of come what may--- both are reluctant to be not with each other or maybe on the process of letting go.

I invited him over dinner. At 7pm, Ethan and i had dinner. But the feeling was no longer the same or maybe i don't remember anymore how it feels to be together doing normal stuff.

It just hit me that, it could also be said that a relationship is in good condition when both of you are doing the normal things like eating meals together, shopping for clothes even just for your partner. Helping things a his house. This things are boring stuff but when the partners getting stronger this is funniest things to do. Quiet time. This is what lacks with my relationship to Ethan. He and i were always out. Though there are things we do together, he felt awkward that i felt boring, but staying in his room while he is studying and im playing with my cellphone----was the most cherished moment i have. I gues it shows how comfortable the partners are.

I just want to make a clarification, yes i love Ethan but he and I are just bound to be best friends. And loving someone are partners are almost the same as having a boyfriend or girlfriend. I am in love with someone (not Ethan) now.

Tomorrow, i want to write about my work and try to share my professional knowledge about it---being a jeans designer and merchandiser.


I wonder if i could have categories for post here. like if people just chose my professional views about jeans or merchandising so they can click on that category.

Sunday, February 10, 2008

at first throw off

I met him last March 2007 few days after his birthday. Ethan and I jive very good, without talking i know what he likes to do and how to make him interested, and he ca also do the same for me.
We go out a lot, practically every nite, going to bars, drinking and seeing people come and go. We work out in same gym. Since we see each other everyday, we enjoy each other's company so much.

Everything was magic bet him and me. I dont know why things have to be changed and things are now uncertain.

I dont know if it is a mistake to feel hurt...

Last Thursday he sent me a message thru his cp, saying he wants to dye his hair. So i said ok, i will die it. So i did that nite. After dyeing his hair, he invited me to out and have some drinks in our "home" bar in Malate. We end up not going because he and i have appointment with Seung Woo next day to have dinner and maybe drink till midnight so Ethan and i opted to
go out the next day. After doing some personal things, i hand washed my favorite long sleeve shirt for tomorrow.

Friday nite, i was so excited about it. Came home early from work and iron my shirt and dress up. I was trying to reach him but i can not and after few angry messages he replied, where i am and they are done having dinner. He asked to met them instead in his place and so i did. when i reached home i was so disappointed that it was dinner date but i was not in a dinner. So i just handed to him his pants, he asked me to alter some of his pants. He asked me to removed my shoes which was he never asked me to do in his house. Though, i dont mind removing my shoes but why just now that he has his friends there. And so just uttered, i needed to go home to change clothes, and i was from a meeting thats why i was dress up.

I was hurt. But then i went home to change to a more casual wear. After few hours i went back since i really miss him. The way we used to do. Ethan and I didn't do a single thing without each other.

I tried rationalizing things on myself, the dinner, his comments, actions are different; so i can mingle to all of them nicely and jolly.

I was hurt when i got to know they played bowling. I asked Ethan to play with me several times but he refuses. But as how Rick told me, Ethan enjoyed a lot. But of course, i might be a boring player so he didn't want to played with me. Ethan and i played badminton before and he told me that I'm not a good player so he wont be playing again with me. Should i say it hurts me!!?? yeah even now...



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kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:39:03 AM): just about my best friend
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kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:39:19 AM): and i alwasy feel hurt
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kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:40:13 AM): but abyways what i do is
kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:40:37 AM): i get away from him for awhile to collect my thoughts n myself
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:40:54 AM): did that
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:41:00 AM): now i just want to forget him
kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:41:03 AM): mahirap pag best friend ang tinotopak
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:41:18 AM): jsut forget him
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kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:42:26 AM): i know
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kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:42:46 AM): but i also know its the time for me to care more of myself rather than think of him and me
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:42:55 AM): he is more than myboyfriend
kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:43:03 AM): just let time do its job and let it heal both of u guys
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:43:06 AM): i think of him before anyone else
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kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:43:21 AM): i treat my best bud like a brother
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kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:43:30 AM): sorry but im tired
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kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:47:27 AM): calm down dude
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kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:47:46 AM): ok n?
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kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:48:03 AM): gusto kong lumabas
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:48:08 AM): makipagsungtukan
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:48:21 AM): gusto ko lumangoy till i lost my breath
kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:48:41 AM): hay mko kiel
kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:49:05 AM): just let it all out tonight\para bukas pag gising mo
kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:49:12 AM): its a new day
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:49:23 AM): i know myself
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:49:28 AM): im stubborn
kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:49:29 AM): its a good day to start all over again
kiel sullano (2/11/2008 12:49:39 AM): it is not thjat simple for me
kobe dick (2/11/2008 12:49:47 AM): i know

...
i called him just now, i will see him tomorrow and and talk to him all things inside me.